The journey begins in the early hours of the morning in Brooklyn, a borough that has become Sze’s professional and personal home. His first stop is Bakeri, a neighborhood staple known for its rustic, transportive atmosphere and its commitment to traditional baking methods. For Sze, the appeal of Bakeri lies in its ability to elevate simple ingredients through meticulous execution. While the bakery offers a wide array of sophisticated pastries and loaves, Sze’s ritualistic order is a sandwich that balances sweetness, acidity, and creaminess: a combination of honey, crisp apple, and brie, all served on a classic, crunchy baguette. This choice reflects a chef’s appreciation for contrast. The baguette provides a structural, shattering crust that gives way to a soft interior, acting as the perfect vessel for the yielding texture of the brie and the sharp, fresh snap of the apple slices. It is a breakfast that avoids the heaviness of more traditional morning fare, providing a bright start to a day dedicated to exploration.
As the morning progresses, Sze’s itinerary shifts from the delicate world of flour and yeast to the more rugged, craft-oriented environment of The Meat Hook. Located in the heart of Brooklyn’s artisanal food scene, The Meat Hook is more than just a retail shop for Sze; it is a vital part of his professional ecosystem. The shop serves as the primary meat supplier for Wenwen, creating a bridge between the chef’s commercial kitchen and his personal pantry. On his day off, the relationship shifts from business to pleasure as Sze selects cuts for a home-cooked dinner. His preferences lean toward the specialized and the time-honored, specifically seeking out unique cuts of steak and the shop’s renowned dry-aged short ribs. The Meat Hook has earned a reputation for its commitment to whole-animal butchery and local sourcing, and Sze’s reliance on them underscores the importance of provenance in his culinary philosophy. By choosing dry-aged ribs, he looks for the concentrated, umami-rich depth that only time and controlled environments can impart to beef—a flavor profile that mirrors the complexity he strives for in his own cooking.
No culinary tour of New York City would be complete without a deep dive into the city’s most iconic food group: pizza. For Sze, the current gold standard is found at Chrissy’s Pizza, where chef Chris Hansell has spent years in a relentless pursuit of the perfect New York-style pie. Hansell’s approach is one of refinement and patience, treating the classic pizza format with the reverence usually reserved for fine dining. Sze’s order of choice is the jalapeño and garlic pie, a selection that highlights Hansell’s ability to achieve perfect proportions. In a city where toppings can often overwhelm the foundation, this pie is celebrated for its balance. The heat of the jalapeño and the aromatic pungency of the garlic are calibrated to complement, rather than mask, the doughy, yeasted crust. The crust itself is a point of particular admiration for Sze; it possesses the characteristic chew and structural integrity of a well-fermented dough, providing a base that is both substantial and airy. This stop at Chrissy’s represents the intersection of tradition and modern technique, showcasing how a staple food can be elevated through obsessive attention to detail.
