In the fast-paced, high-pressure environment of the New York City restaurant scene, the rare day off for a professional chef is more than just a period of rest; it is an essential opportunity for culinary recalibration. For Eric Sze, the chef and owner of the acclaimed Taiwanese restaurant Wenwen in Brooklyn, a day away from his own kitchen is an intentional journey through the neighborhoods and establishments that define the city’s diverse gastronomic identity. From the artisanal bakeries of North Brooklyn to the traditional noodle shops of Flushing, Sze’s personal rotation of favorite spots offers a window into the palate of a chef who values craft, nostalgia, and the integrity of ingredients.
The ritual of a chef’s day off often mirrors their approach to their own menu, seeking out balance, technique, and a sense of place. For Sze, whose work at Wenwen has been praised for its vibrant and soulful interpretation of Taiwanese home cooking, his personal explorations are less about chasing the latest trends and more about visiting the masters of specific crafts. Whether it is a butcher who understands the nuances of a dry-aged rib or a pizza maker who has spent years perfecting the hydration of a yeasted dough, Sze’s itinerary highlights the collaborative and deeply rooted nature of New York’s food community.
The morning begins not with the complex aromatics of a commercial kitchen, but with the simple, refined comforts of a neighborhood bakery. Sze’s first stop is Bakeri, a staple of the Brooklyn baking scene known for its rustic charm and commitment to traditional European techniques. While the bakery offers a wide array of pastries and sourdoughs, Sze’s go-to order is a testament to the power of a well-constructed sandwich. He opts for a combination of honey, apple, and brie, all layered onto a crunchy, freshly baked baguette.
The choice of this sandwich speaks to a broader appreciation for textural contrast—the snap of the baguette’s crust against the creaminess of the brie and the crispness of the apple. It is a breakfast that avoids the heaviness of typical New York morning fare, providing a light yet satisfying start to a day that will eventually lead to much heavier flavors. In the world of high-end cooking, where complexity often reigns, Sze’s preference for this simple trio of ingredients highlights his belief that quality bread is the foundation of any great meal.
From the quiet, flour-dusted atmosphere of Bakeri, Sze moves toward a more industrial and essential part of his culinary network. The Meat Hook, a renowned butcher shop in Brooklyn, serves as more than just a retail stop for Sze; it is the primary meat supplier for Wenwen. The relationship between a chef and their butcher is one of the most critical partnerships in the industry, built on a shared understanding of quality and sourcing. At The Meat Hook, the focus is on whole-animal butchery and supporting local producers, a philosophy that aligns with Sze’s own standards.
