In the fast-paced, high-pressure environment of the New York City restaurant scene, the rare day off for a professional chef is more than just a period of rest; it is an essential opportunity for culinary recalibration. For Eric Sze, the chef and owner of the acclaimed Taiwanese restaurant Wenwen in Brooklyn, a day away from his own kitchen is an intentional journey through the neighborhoods and establishments that define the city’s diverse gastronomic identity. From the artisanal bakeries of North Brooklyn to the traditional noodle shops of Flushing, Sze’s personal rotation of favorite spots offers a window into the palate of a chef who values craft, nostalgia, and the integrity of ingredients.
The ritual of a chef’s day off often mirrors their approach to their own menu, seeking out balance, technique, and a sense of place. For Sze, whose work at Wenwen has been praised for its vibrant and soulful interpretation of Taiwanese home cooking, his personal explorations are less about chasing the latest trends and more about visiting the masters of specific crafts. Whether it is a butcher who understands the nuances of a dry-aged rib or a pizza maker who has spent years perfecting the hydration of a yeasted dough, Sze’s itinerary highlights the collaborative and deeply rooted nature of New York’s food community.
The morning begins not with the complex aromatics of a commercial kitchen, but with the simple, refined comforts of a neighborhood bakery. Sze’s first stop is Bakeri, a staple of the Brooklyn baking scene known for its rustic charm and commitment to traditional European techniques. While the bakery offers a wide array of pastries and sourdoughs, Sze’s go-to order is a testament to the power of a well-constructed sandwich. He opts for a combination of honey, apple, and brie, all layered onto a crunchy, freshly baked baguette.
The choice of this sandwich speaks to a broader appreciation for textural contrast—the snap of the baguette’s crust against the creaminess of the brie and the crispness of the apple. It is a breakfast that avoids the heaviness of typical New York morning fare, providing a light yet satisfying start to a day that will eventually lead to much heavier flavors. In the world of high-end cooking, where complexity often reigns, Sze’s preference for this simple trio of ingredients highlights his belief that quality bread is the foundation of any great meal.
From the quiet, flour-dusted atmosphere of Bakeri, Sze moves toward a more industrial and essential part of his culinary network. The Meat Hook, a renowned butcher shop in Brooklyn, serves as more than just a retail stop for Sze; it is the primary meat supplier for Wenwen. The relationship between a chef and their butcher is one of the most critical partnerships in the industry, built on a shared understanding of quality and sourcing. At The Meat Hook, the focus is on whole-animal butchery and supporting local producers, a philosophy that aligns with Sze’s own standards.
On his day off, Sze isn’t just checking in on his restaurant’s orders; he is shopping for his own table. His selections at the butcher counter are deliberate: a specialty cut of steak and dry-aged short ribs. The process of dry-aging is a slow, transformative art that concentrates flavor and breaks down muscle fibers to create a texture that cannot be replicated by modern industrial methods. By choosing these cuts for dinner, Sze demonstrates a chef’s preference for ingredients that have been treated with time and patience, ensuring that even a meal cooked at home carries the same depth of flavor found in a professional kitchen.
The midday portion of Sze’s journey brings him to Chrissy’s Pizza, an establishment that exemplifies the New York obsession with the perfect pie. Behind the counter, chef Chris Hansell has spent years in a relentless pursuit of pizza perfection, fine-tuning every variable from oven temperature to flour blends. For Sze, Chrissy’s represents the pinnacle of the "NY-style" pie—a category that is often imitated but rarely executed with such precision.
Sze’s order at Chrissy’s is the jalapeño and garlic pie, a selection that showcases a sophisticated understanding of heat and aromatics. Rather than overwhelming the palate, the jalapeño and garlic are applied in perfect proportions, allowing the ingredients to complement rather than compete with the rich tomato sauce and cheese. However, the true star of the show for Sze is the crust. Described as doughy and yeasted, the crust at Chrissy’s Pizza manages to achieve a crispy exterior while maintaining a structural integrity and a chew that suggests a long, careful fermentation process. It is the kind of pizza that requires a chef’s level of dedication to produce, making it a natural favorite for someone like Sze.
As the day progresses, the journey shifts from the modern streets of Brooklyn to the historic culinary enclave of Flushing, Queens. For Sze, a trip to Flushing is a return to his roots. While his own restaurant, Wenwen, is a celebrated part of the Taiwanese-American narrative in Brooklyn, Maxi’s Noodle 2 in Flushing provides the nostalgic Chinese flavors he has craved since moving to the United States from Taiwan. This stop is less about professional inspiration and more about the emotional connection to the food of his upbringing.
At Maxi’s Noodle 2, the experience is guided by owner Maxi Lau-O’Keefe, who has become a guardian of traditional Cantonese-style noodle preparations. The centerpiece of the visit is the iconic wonton. These are not the small, mass-produced dumplings found in many takeout spots; these are oversized, hand-crafted parcels filled with a meticulously seasoned mixture of shrimp and pork. Sze takes the opportunity to step behind the scenes, where Lau-O’Keefe demonstrates the expert folding techniques required to ensure the wontons hold their shape and texture during the cooking process.
The folding of a wonton is a deceptively complex task, a rhythmic dance of the fingers that requires years to master. Despite his own professional standing, Sze finds himself humbled by the dexterity and speed of the practitioners at Maxi’s. It is a reminder that in the world of food, there is always a deeper level of craft to be explored. The complexity of the fold is not just for aesthetics; it creates the specific mouthfeel and "tail" of the wonton that is essential to the authentic experience.
After the lesson in preparation, Sze settles in for the meal itself. The bowl of soup is a masterclass in traditional balance. The noodles, made with duck eggs, are thin and possess a distinct "snap" or alkalinity that is the hallmark of high-quality Cantonese noodles. The use of duck eggs instead of chicken eggs provides a richer flavor and a more resilient texture that stands up to the hot, savory broth. Accompanied by the classic wontons and a side of beef soup, the meal represents the kind of comfort food that transcends simple sustenance. For a chef who spends his life creating food for others, this bowl of noodles is a way to reconnect with his own history.
Sze’s day off, as documented in the latest installment of the "Chef’s Day Off" series, serves as a narrative of the interconnectedness of the New York food scene. It shows a chef who is as much a student and a fan of the craft as he is a practitioner. By highlighting these specific locations—Bakeri, The Meat Hook, Chrissy’s Pizza, and Maxi’s Noodle 2—Sze provides a roadmap for anyone looking to understand the standards of quality that drive the city’s top culinary minds.
The day concludes as it began, centered around the idea of the "simple" done exceptionally well. Whether it is the crunch of a baguette in the morning or the snap of a duck egg noodle in the afternoon, the common thread in Sze’s favorite spots is a dedication to the fundamentals of cooking. These establishments do not rely on gimmicks; they rely on the consistency of their product and the passion of the people behind the counter.
For Eric Sze, these weekly visits are a vital part of his life in New York. They offer a moment to step out from behind the pass at Wenwen and remember why he fell in love with food in the first place. In a city that is constantly changing, these anchors of flavor provide a sense of continuity and excellence. As Sze heads home with his specialty cuts from The Meat Hook, the day off ends not just with a full stomach, but with a renewed appreciation for the artisans who keep New York City’s food culture vibrant and authentic.
